Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #46  
Old 04-14-2017, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by FSUwelder1212 View Post
Since the issue doesn't seem to be the pin shearing, but rather coming out. I would think if you used a bit shorter pin and then plug welded both ends of the hole shut, that would solve the issue. I don't think it would be all that difficult either.


Or a roll pin woulda been cheaper and imo the best option
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  #47  
Old 04-14-2017, 10:48 AM
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This cracks me up. It is just like cranks breaking after the alternate fire cam swap. No matter what you are doing you are going to have a percentage of failures on any product out there. I think you guys are thinking way too hard about this. Let's be real. How many have we really seen fail?

I do think with the RPMs out these trucks are starting to push they will have to do like the Cummins guys do and remove little bit of fin off the impeller.
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Old 04-14-2017, 11:00 AM
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Nah I'm just going to key, pin and weld the next one. Lol.
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  #49  
Old 04-14-2017, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by x MadMAX DIESEL View Post
Or a roll pin woulda been cheaper and imo the best option
Roll pins are hollow though so I'm not sure it would have enough CSA to keep from shearing. People shear welded pumps so there is def some substantial force.

Although I believe welded pump failures are due to not understanding that strength of the weld is derived from the throat and welding it as a square butt configuration is not providing sufficient throat, which could be solved by beveling the shaft and/or the impeller bore.
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  #50  
Old 04-14-2017, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ne-max View Post
This cracks me up. It is just like cranks breaking after the alternate fire cam swap. No matter what you are doing you are going to have a percentage of failures on any product out there. I think you guys are thinking way too hard about this. Let's be real. How many have we really seen fail?

I do think with the RPMs out these trucks are starting to push they will have to do like the Cummins guys do and remove little bit of fin off the impeller.
Its too bad we dont have someone here who's learned in fluid dynamics.

Id like to hear more about the fin alterations like you describe, though. Do you think that designing a different impeller that could handle more RPM, similar to a turbo compressor, would be the way to go?
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  #51  
Old 04-14-2017, 01:05 PM
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Grinding the fins down some will make them more efficent at higher rpms, take less torque to spin them, etc. The trade off is thay wont move as much at the lower rpms so engine temps may be higher during low rpm driving or towing

Almost looks like the impeller is now ready for high rpm use with it worn down like it is. Just need to put the pin back in

The question i have is: how do you drill the hole in the impeller with the fins in the way?
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  #52  
Old 04-14-2017, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004LB7 View Post
Grinding the fins down some will make them more efficent at higher rpms, take less torque to spin them, etc. The trade off is thay wont move as much at the lower rpms so engine temps may be higher during low rpm driving or towing

Almost looks like the impeller is now ready for high rpm use with it worn down like it is. Just need to put the pin back in

The question i have is: how do you drill the hole in the impeller with the fins in the way?


You have just enough room between fins to be able to do it.
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Alive 11/15/13: lowered, Built motor, s475, plenty of fuel, plenty of spray. Tune 3 fuel only 11.84 @114, Tune 5 little bit of spray 11.45 @ 121. Both times with melted turbine wheel, loose turbo from pedestal with blown out flange gasket. .
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  #53  
Old 04-14-2017, 03:01 PM
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The welds break because you have two different grades of metal.
If someone made a different impeller wheel instead of a cast one the weld would be much stronger!
And also like mentioned before grooving the material would increase the strength
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  #54  
Old 04-14-2017, 03:32 PM
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If that pin sheared I bet a piece would still be pressed in one of the holes. Looks like it fell out to me.
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  #55  
Old 04-14-2017, 03:46 PM
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What about tread the impeller, bolt in with tread lock, no way that will leave the shaft. Only if the impeller explode....
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  #56  
Old 04-14-2017, 06:22 PM
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To the OP, just out of curiosity, are you still running the bypass pipe between the thermostat housing and the top of the water pump housing?
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  #57  
Old 04-14-2017, 06:42 PM
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Yes
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Alive 11/15/13: lowered, Built motor, s475, plenty of fuel, plenty of spray. Tune 3 fuel only 11.84 @114, Tune 5 little bit of spray 11.45 @ 121. Both times with melted turbine wheel, loose turbo from pedestal with blown out flange gasket. .
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  #58  
Old 04-19-2017, 05:49 AM
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Got the new pump in and this one is different, this one is a roll pin just pressed in no weld. Other one has solid weld over it.


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Alive 11/15/13: lowered, Built motor, s475, plenty of fuel, plenty of spray. Tune 3 fuel only 11.84 @114, Tune 5 little bit of spray 11.45 @ 121. Both times with melted turbine wheel, loose turbo from pedestal with blown out flange gasket. .
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  #59  
Old 05-09-2017, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkBroviak View Post
Yes, unfortunately we can't control the out sourcing that ACDelco and many of the other big name OE manufactures are doing these days so it definitely has an impact on things. There isn't much I can say about it other than we will get it taken care of. We have only had a handful of them fail out of the hundreds that are in the field doing there job. The issues with the waterpumps is they are just like turbos except the water pump is mechanically hooked to the motor so there is no give. Waterpump pressure measured in the housing right before the oil cooler pipe attachment ranges from 1-2psi at idle all the way up to 90+psi at 4700rpms and when the trany shifts or you chop the throttle all that pressure wants back out. Pretty harsh place for them to live in and makes it that much worse when the manufacture cuts corners to save a buck or two.
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Originally Posted by malibu795 View Post
Mark.


There possibility of plumbing a relief valve?
Guessing that's 90psi with one or both tstats closed..
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Originally Posted by MarkBroviak View Post
Technically yes but the pressure is what helps with the cooling process so if you remove it then you will lose some of it. I don't know where the crossover is between the two.
I was thinking along something like this
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63440

Or gutting one of the TStats or drilling more bypass hole in them
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  #60  
Old 05-09-2017, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malibu795 View Post
I was thinking along something like this
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63440

Or gutting one of the TStats or drilling more bypass hole in them
Yes, that is what I do with my stuff. I remove the check balls from the one stat and it has worked out ok for me.
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