Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #16  
Old 09-12-2016, 05:15 PM
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NC-smokinlmm NC-smokinlmm is offline
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Originally Posted by Potthoffdmax View Post
Cool project!!! You do some good work James!!
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Originally Posted by clrussell View Post
You win James.. I didn't know those things could be cool.
My thoughts exactly...
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2016 LML CCSB Denali < Lifted 22's/35's, Fox 2.0 < I officially need help.
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  #17  
Old 09-14-2016, 11:21 AM
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Set of stock supra injectors on order with clips. these are the smaller of the ones that supras came with but at 310cc, its plenty for the 250 crank hp im after. turbo and wastegate wound up selling with my turbo kit but ill pick another one up down the road. my main thing is getting the bigger injectors dialed with the AEM computer before i start throwing boost at it. will make the tuning for boost alot easier since the vac to atmospheric pressure will be taken care of

i tell you what, you cant find shit on these suzuki injectors. took alot of time comparing pictures of different style injectors looked like, how they mount and low or high impedance. the part number on the suzuki injector doesnt bring up crap. i only found one little blurb on ebay that the stockers might be 240cc/min. In the end, i know they are Denso injectors, high impedance, and top feed. i originally wanted 440cc injectors but i honestly dont plan on pushing the rig past 10psi. im afraid the stock bottom end wont handle it and there isnt exactly much out there for pistons or rods lol.

also found that the stock injectors are sequentially fired and not batch fired like i originally thought which is a plus!

so if the injectors come in by the weekend, i may throw the computer in, injectors in and my wide band on. then start some tuning. wish she had a knock sensor though...
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Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
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  #18  
Old 09-14-2016, 11:36 AM
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What you need is another set of stock rods, cut the big and small ends off, then weld the center beam to the rods going back in the engine. Might need to rebalance everything
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  #19  
Old 09-14-2016, 11:41 AM
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and here i though duct tape and popsicle sticks would be enough
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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  #20  
Old 09-14-2016, 12:58 PM
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Mmm, maybe at 12psi. Figured you'd go for 20

#boostlyfe
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  #21  
Old 09-19-2016, 10:35 AM
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Wired up the AEM FIC this weekend. Wasnt as bad as i figured it would be. had to ohm a few wires to make sure i was connecting to the right ones and suzuki decided to do some weird things with the cam and crank sensor that most MFG dont do (go figure) but nothing a good set of wiring schematics and a little trial/error/googling couldnt fix.

Also drilled an 1/8" npt into the intake manifold and used 5/16" hose barb and hose ran to the cab and reduced down to 1/8" stuff for the MAP sensor on the FIC. i went large as some people had issues with running 1/8" stuff that far away from the manifold to the FIC and it causing bad readings. not really sure it would have affected me that much but the 5/16" line lets me tap into it for an FMU down the road if i want.

Mounted the FIC under the stock computer. i was worried about someone kicking up and breaking the plastic MAP connector off so i angled it back far as i could. there is absolutely no space anywhere else on the passenger side to mount it unless i put it in the glove box which i didnt want OR put it under the hood which would have ment wiring everything from the engine bay (didnt like that idea). this worked out pretty clean



At this point, i dont have the wiring hooked to the FIC and have the jumper they send with installed (more on that later). the bundle of wires off the side are extra wires not needed for my setup. i have not cut them yet as im not 100% sure i have everything wired correctly to make the tuning work. i have no check engine light or codes but that doesnt mean its all working right.

(most time consuming part here. cut, soldier, heat shrink and repeat.)


(bundle of extra wires)


(jumper)



So once everything was hooked up how i though it should be, i started the rig and she fired right up..... then she threw a check engine light. Light was for the crank sensor. The sensor has 3 wires coming off it and based on AEM and google, that means its a hall effect sensor. well when i was searching for the "5v signal wire" to the CKP, i couldnt find any voltage. looking at the wiring diagram, two wires come out of the ECM direct to the sensor and the third goes to ground. Started thinking about it and looking at the wiring diagram... the ground wire also encompasses the shielding wire that goes around the O2 sensor wiring. if you take that wire out of the equation, all signs point to the CKP as a magnetic sensor. interesting considering the CMP is hall effect. So i rewire the CKP for a magnetic pick up and bye bye check engine light.

Take her out on her first test drive and notice im getting a hesitation at about 3k rpm and starts cutting out at 4500ish rpm. kinda looked over the tune but im still trying to understand how the tables coincide with one another and its not making much sense at that point in time. Plus its hot out (2 in the afternoon on sunday) and im over it. So plug the jumper in and shes back to running good.

I have a better grasp of how its all setup now so ill try some thing when i get time. I did find a "resistor mod" guys do on the mag pickups for crank signal to clean up the incoming voltage. i guess the FIC is sensitive enough that if the incoming signal is not clean, it will think the vehicle is adding/removing timing and it will adjust for it.

some of the tables i get to play with


extremely simple compared to tuning with EFI Live. reminds me of cummins UDC tuning . even has an onboard logging setup. only issue is ill have to build conversion tables in excel to convert the logged excel data into a graph i can relate to.

its definitely interesting how it works tweaks stock tables with lots of adjustability. biggest thing is figuring out how each table is receiving its data and setting it up accordingly, then plugging in numbers to the tables is the easy part. only thing i cant do is ADD timing, you can take it away for boost conditions but i was hoping to add timing to increase mpg and power some while N/A. i have found a few guys that have tricked the stock computer using the FIC to add timing but ill have to see if i can set my tables up to do that.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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  #22  
Old 09-23-2016, 10:56 AM
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Chevy1925 Chevy1925 is offline
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Well tracker is now running on FIC tuning!

Couple nights ago i ran around and grabbed some resistors. got home and tired different resistors on the crank sensor to "clean up the signal" as everyone claims they do. noticed no difference. completely disconnected the crank sensor, made things worse. only tapped the "crank in" signal to the stock crank wire, back to where it was. took some logs to see what was going on. Seems every time i get into 65% throttle or more, the map sensor voltage starts changing (not via the fic, something esle is causing it) and the engine load percentage jumps around from 11 to 15%, wont stay consistent.

So gave AEM a call today to pick their brains. they suggested i flash in the z110 file, im currently running the z107 file. These are like different OS's for our trucks, best i understand. the 110 file is ment for a sequential injection like i have, not like the internet said for the 107 file (f**kers lied again.... damn internet). flashed in the z110 file before heading out for lunch yesterday and she runs just like stock! just have to rewire the crank sensor back up like it originally was, then verify that if i pull timing in the FIC, it will actually make the timing drop in the tracker.

im sooooooo gunna blow sh!t up
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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  #23  
Old 09-23-2016, 11:55 AM
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PureHybrid PureHybrid is offline
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Good deal, maybe someone should tell those other guys
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I can't complain, but sometimes I still do
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  #24  
Old 09-30-2016, 08:35 AM
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Chevy1925 Chevy1925 is offline
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I advanced base timing 7* last night and had the AEM computer pull back 7* so the tracker ran like stock. i then started slowly adding timing to see if i could get a ping or knock from it. im still on 87 octane as well. started out 1* at a time and decided to stop at 4* added over all cause i still heard no pinging but i want to check the plugs for signs of it before i add more.

this made a huge difference down low in the rpm range (as it should) and still carried more power up higher in the RPM based on the butt dyno. last night i couldnt really tell if there was much difference but driving into work today, i could tell very easily as the throttle is touchier, gets up to speed way quicker, and holds 4th better. Wide band goes in next so i can play with fueling. suzuki left alot on the table for this little engine.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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  #25  
Old 12-07-2016, 03:02 PM
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figured id update this a bit to anyone curious. i have added 7* total timing to WOT with 0 sign of detonation on the plugs and nothing you can hear. im also running 91 full time. i then added that same 7* to my typical throttle acceleration area and about 5* overall on the map. HUGE difference in torque increase from the bottom end and holds 4th gear in cruise up most overpass inclines (never would before, in fact, you had to have a 0 wind day to hold 4th gear in cruise).

I also had a chance to line up again my buddies GV. his is damn near exactly the same as mine but on stock 4.88 gears and 31s (im on 5.13s and 33s). he was by him self, i had me and the wife in the rig. easily pulled away from him no matter how he tried to beat me lol. one of the worlds slowest drag races but showed this thing picked up considerable power.

Now i sold my boxed in style bumper to my buddy as well and decided on a prerunner style bumper with the winch hidden behind it. fits my preferences better and will match the long travel im building for it.

Where im at so far after two days after work






Its about 80% there. I still have more tube to add to the single out rigging tubes to tie it back into the frame, plating and filling in a few areas of where the bumper attaches to the frame, skid plate, make the top hoop land right on top of the vertical bumper tubes (you can see its about 1" too far out on each side), brace up the winch plate more, fully weld it and then paint it. it will also has a few areas of attachment when i do the engine cage eventually.

and just cause i want to rub it in, that rust is just surface rust. those tubes sat outside in the elements since march of this year
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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  #26  
Old 12-07-2016, 03:37 PM
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Looking great.. Love that little rig
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  #27  
Old 12-07-2016, 06:53 PM
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We had a couple of those GV at work a few years ago. They were great little SUVs for the money. Pretty cool there's tuning available for them.
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SOLD02 Chevy 2500HD D/A EC SB LS
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  #28  
Old 12-07-2016, 07:06 PM
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Chevy1925 Chevy1925 is offline
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Originally Posted by SmokeShow View Post
We had a couple of those GV at work a few years ago. They were great little SUVs for the money. Pretty cool there's tuning available for them.


Lol there isn't. I had to wire in a piggy back computer to trick the ecm. And then I had to trick the piggy back computer so I could add timing, it only lets you reduce timing in anticipation of boost
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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  #29  
Old 12-16-2016, 07:43 AM
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finished bumper with light bar off the truck installed and everything in place



also added an alarm system and remote start to her last night. put a proximity sensor on it that i set at night. i have more lights im adding and i dont feel like having them walk off. if you walk into the "field" it produces, it will chip at you and if you dont move out of it, it will go off. Something ive wanted to add to the truck as well but with it being garage kept now, its not been a high priority
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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  #30  
Old 12-16-2016, 09:10 AM
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That's pretty sharp man! Good job
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