Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #31  
Old 04-15-2014, 03:36 AM
obs_man obs_man is offline
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I could only find one 6.25 long can I cut a shorter pipe and make it work? I know thia ia an old post but cups still go bad...
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  #32  
Old 08-05-2014, 10:16 AM
SAVAGE77 SAVAGE77 is offline
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I wanted to add some recent experience with this tool in the event that anyone is still trying to make them. A 7in anchor is not necessary. Most hardware supply stores only sell 3/4 anchors up to 5.5 inches long. This is plenty. As for the pipe, again most hardware supply stores don't sell short piping in 1/8in increments. What I did was make a 1 1/4in faucet down pipe that was 6in long. The sidewall on it is less that 1/16th making the clearances plentiful. I used a sleeve anchor and cut the sleeve down by at least 1in and cut the 6in down pipe to 4 inches. The column load of the pipe doesn't require the thickness to be very large, though it did crumble a bit, only because the cup was beat into the head which of course ruined the head. I will supply pictures once they're uploaded.
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  #33  
Old 12-11-2014, 12:33 PM
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clrussell clrussell is offline
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Just found this thread.

Thanks to the op!! Just saved me $200!
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  #34  
Old 10-22-2015, 06:19 AM
Billdog350 Billdog350 is offline
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Just finished a complete head gasket install, injector replacement, top end gasket replacement, ARP stud install, and turbo rebuild project on my 2003 Duramax and I still have a hydrolocking issue and occasional puffs of white smoke upon restart so I am convinced I need injector cups re-sealed. Obviously I should have re-sealed these when the head was off but I saw posts from people saying not to touch them if they don't seem bad. Of course yanking the heads drops coolant into the cylinders so no way to know which cyl was bad before.

I will be trying to make this tool unless someone has one I can borrow. What a PITA to do but I'm glad people posted this up so I can make it up and save $200!
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  #35  
Old 02-16-2016, 07:30 PM
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rayount23 rayount23 is offline
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OK, so I am a little lost with the pipe size and type. When I call around for a pipe material, the 1 1/4" pipe has an outside diameter of 1.669" and an interior of 1.375". This is schedule 40 steel pipe. Any thin wall conduit or EMT is not large enough in the 1 1/4" size. Where did you get the pipe and what type and schedule thickness is it?

Thanks for your help.
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  #36  
Old 02-16-2016, 10:32 PM
bmc1025 bmc1025 is offline
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Go to ACE hardware and look in the section with bathroom sink drain pipes. There should be a chrome looking 1 1/4 pipe that works perfectly.

The ace part# 4225702 (1 1/4 x 6 sink tailpiece)

or THIS CLICK ME From Amazon
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Last edited by bmc1025; 02-16-2016 at 10:41 PM.
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  #37  
Old 02-17-2016, 08:15 AM
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Thanks. Will do!
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  #38  
Old 01-11-2017, 10:28 AM
Billdog350 Billdog350 is offline
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I have an update for this post for guys having trouble finding the anchor. I searched high and low at Home Depot, Lowes, local hardware stores, etc and couldn't find a large enough anchor for the cup...HOWEVER...I did modify the design listed here and made it work MINT.
  • Get a normal 3/4 concrete lag anchor, then get the anchor listed in the beginning of this thread, I used a 4" drop in anchor and took the outer expansion piece off of it. Now I have a tapered end threaded bolt.
  • Put that tapered anchor bolt through the lag anchor, then stack the right sized washer that covers the lag anchor at the opposite end.
  • Cut off a piece about 1.5" long from the drop in anchor outer sleeve that you removed and put another washer and nut on top of it, after you install it on the bolt.
  • Lastly, get a piece of 1.5" copper pipe union, the diameter is perfect to fit between the valve springs and allow the cup to fit in it. and you'll need a large fender washer to fit over the top of the copper pipe.
You will be able to tighten the first nut until snug (do not overtighten or you'll screw up the lag anchor or your injector cup), then install the copper pipe and center it on the injector cup, and then the washer, nut and then you tighten the top nut until the cup pops out. It worked perfectly for me for all 4 of the cups that I did. Didn't slip out once. Didn't mark up the injector cup at all.
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  #39  
Old 01-11-2017, 10:37 AM
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Noreaster Noreaster is offline
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That's a copper coupling not a union

What was on the end of the cup? Looks like grey rtv
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Last edited by Noreaster; 01-11-2017 at 10:49 AM.
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