Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #31  
Old 01-01-2017, 07:51 AM
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That's very cheap for both sets.
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  #32  
Old 01-01-2017, 09:09 AM
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Wondering the same thing tom, I bet they would go fast. On this topic of brake I put in a set of the Russell stainless lines and it helped pedal feel alot. Flush the fluid every 2 years regardless of miles. I'd like a 11 hydrobooster and new stainless hardlines to replace all the factory stuff
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  #33  
Old 01-01-2017, 09:30 AM
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So, when you guys upgrade to the '11 LML hydroboost do you use the your same master cylinder that came with your truck? Or is that changed as well? Cause by GM part number my master cylinder only goes on 01-02 vehicles.
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  #34  
Old 01-01-2017, 09:33 AM
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I like the reactive one rotors from Napa, their pricey but their really holding up well to the salt environment up here
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  #35  
Old 01-01-2017, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyleC4 View Post
So, when you guys upgrade to the '11 LML hydroboost do you use the your same master cylinder that came with your truck? Or is that changed as well? Cause by GM part number my master cylinder only goes on 01-02 vehicles.
I used the factory master on an 04,05,07.5, and 08
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  #36  
Old 01-01-2017, 02:30 PM
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Do you guys have a part number for the 2011 hydrobooster? Mine just started leaking out if the weep hole.
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  #37  
Old 01-01-2017, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c5fourj View Post
Do you guys have a part number for the 2011 hydrobooster? Mine just started leaking out if the weep hole.


178-0853


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  #38  
Old 01-01-2017, 03:22 PM
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[QUOTE=Awenta;1041741]178-0853


Thanks
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Overloads pulled, 2" drop shackles, torsion key bolts pulled, on 285/55/20
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  #39  
Old 01-01-2017, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c5fourj View Post
Do you guys have a part number for the 2011 hydrobooster? Mine just started leaking out if the weep hole.
I might be willing to sell the one off my 2001 race truck. It was on there for about 2,000 miles. It did help braking.
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  #40  
Old 01-01-2017, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
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I might be willing to sell the one off my 2001 race truck. It was on there for about 2,000 miles. It did help braking.
Thanks for the offer but I am going to order a new one.
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S&B intake, pcv reroute, sdp egr delete w/ ppe up pipes, AFE intercooler w/ AFE 3" hot side, 3" downpipe to 4" MBRP, fass 150, 72" trac bars
Overloads pulled, 2" drop shackles, torsion key bolts pulled, on 285/55/20
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  #41  
Old 01-01-2017, 10:09 PM
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I have a '11 hydroboost on my truck and helped out with the braking.
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  #42  
Old 01-01-2017, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minerigger View Post
Wondering the same thing tom, I bet they would go fast. On this topic of brake I put in a set of the Russell stainless lines and it helped pedal feel alot. Flush the fluid every 2 years regardless of miles. I'd like a 11 hydrobooster and new stainless hardlines to replace all the factory stuff


Yup. I would have picked them up probably. I'm looking at doing a set now.

It's really more initial bite I'm after. I can lock up my 37s on a dry level road as it is. Some less fade would be nice too.

I wonder how the pad life is and how they will do towing. I'm going to run the 20 compound pads instead of the 10 too.


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  #43  
Old 01-01-2017, 10:57 PM
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I just replaced master cylinder in my lly
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  #44  
Old 01-02-2017, 11:19 AM
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Any idea if those slotted cross drilled rotors from A1 auto are worth a shit? Figured I'd try a set, my brakes suck a dick.
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  #45  
Old 01-02-2017, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVRigrat05 View Post
Any idea if those slotted cross drilled rotors from A1 auto are worth a shit? Figured I'd try a set, my brakes suck a dick.
Rotors won't fix your problem. And I would never run a drilled rotor. Unless they're carbon ceramics.
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