Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #16  
Old 09-13-2017, 09:45 AM
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I wouldn't want to use one that doesn't bolt to the bumper. Look how long that tongue ends up being. That's a ton of leverage


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  #17  
Old 09-13-2017, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBac View Post
Interesting info. Makes perfect sense, but then it begs the questions,

"Why did some aftermarket companies design their hitches to not use the rear bumper mounts, following GM's design specs, if they are so important to the hitch's over all effectiveness?"
and
"Is there a way to add an extra bumper mounting point to my existing aftermarket hitch safely to make it's design stronger?"
honestly, i dont know. same reason i ask "why do lift companies not design proper front pinion angle into the lifts so you can continue to use a factory style driveline?"

i use to have pics of the trucks that lost hitches this way but they were deleted off my phone and the OP of the thread they are from deleted his thread from all the BS he got. he was hauling a 15k double stacker sand car trailer for a guy. was using a Curt 18k hitch, 5k receiver and a 6k ball. he didnt realize how screwed he was from the beginning. luckily the ball and receiver never failed, the frame actually did first. he since had it fixed by fish plating where the frame split on top and bottom, boxing it in, and plating over the outside of the frame then put a 20k reese hitch on and 20k receiver/ball.

My stock hitch is still going strong accept for the hitch pin for the receiver being wallowed out. ill make some recessed weld washers to fix that for now. i have a 10k ball and receiver on my truck but its more than ill ever tow unless i have a distribution hitch on the truck. my old trailer was 12k tongue pull with a distribution hitch so it was over loaded and the wallowed out pin hole shows it
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  #18  
Old 09-13-2017, 10:16 AM
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I would imagine a U-shaped strap of 1/4" plate around the receiver with mounting tabs to the bumper would help allieviate the issue, wouldnt it? Or welding "ears" onto the hitch to allow for an additional bumper mount?


Or am I completely off base with those ideas?
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  #19  
Old 09-13-2017, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBac View Post
I would imagine a U-shaped strap of 1/4" plate around the receiver with mounting tabs to the bumper would help allieviate the issue, wouldnt it? Or welding "ears" onto the hitch to allow for an additional bumper mount?


Or am I completely off base with those ideas?
no you're pretty much spot on. i would weld some ears on.
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02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
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  #20  
Old 09-13-2017, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
honestly, i dont know. same reason i ask "why do lift companies not design proper front pinion angle into the lifts so you can continue to use a factory style driveline?"

My stock hitch is still going strong accept for the hitch pin for the receiver being wallowed out. ill make some recessed weld washers to fix that for now. i have a 10k ball and receiver on my truck but its more than ill ever tow unless i have a distribution hitch on the truck. my old trailer was 12k tongue pull with a distribution hitch so it was over loaded and the wallowed out pin hole shows it

i thought that the pinion angles had to be the same (within a few %) coming out of the transfer case and going into the diff. otherwise you can get some bad vibrations. that was the reason for the "lift" companies making the pinion angle that way. to try and match the two universal joint angles
____________

on my receiver, I use a grade 8 bolt, nut & washers. I drilled a hole in the nut through the bolt so i can lock it with a small lock or pin. doesn't move around so the hole hasn't grown.
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  #21  
Old 09-13-2017, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
no you're pretty much spot on. i would weld some ears on.
doesn't the bumper also attach to the rear frame? seems to me that all of the stress will still get transmitted to the rear of the frame. or is it better or more evenly distributed with the bumper in play?
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  #22  
Old 09-13-2017, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004LB7 View Post
i thought that the pinion angles had to be the same (within a few %) coming out of the transfer case and going into the diff. otherwise you can get some bad vibrations. that was the reason for the "lift" companies making the pinion angle that way. to try and match the two universal joint angles
____________

on my receiver, I use a grade 8 bolt, nut & washers. I drilled a hole in the nut through the bolt so i can lock it with a small lock or pin. doesn't move around so the hole hasn't grown.
the pinion angles do have to do as you state. now jump under a lifted truck and look at how the angle at the pinion is parallel with the drive shaft and all the angle is at the t-case joint. this is suited for a DC u-joint setup but they are not strong enough for our trucks due to the limited size that can fit there. i would bet lift companies dont correct it so you dont have to have your driveline lengthened. turning the pinion up takes up some of that added length. if i didnt have to cut half of my crossmember apart to fix it, i would have corrected it on my truck already. maybe when i tear everything out for new powder coat.

unless i kept the bolt tight, i dont think it would save mine. slamming throttle with 600 hp, then slamming brakes just took its toll over time. shes going on 16 years of abuse now lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004LB7 View Post
doesn't the bumper also attach to the rear frame? seems to me that all of the stress will still get transmitted to the rear of the frame. or is it better or more evenly distributed with the bumper in play?
it does but its also attached to the frame at more points which distributes the load better into the frame. the bottom of the c-channel is what gave out and then folded the top of the frame with it. basically lost all its structure on the bottom. atleast with the bumper on, the sides of the frame also carry some load which in the direction the leverage is going, will hold up better. thats why i say to box in the frame if you dont want to connect to the bumper, gives alot of strength back to the hitches attachment points at the frame
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02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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  #23  
Old 09-13-2017, 01:15 PM
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Thanks James, i was thinking that was the case but wasn't quite sure
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