Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
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Old 03-22-2018, 02:25 PM
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Default Rod bolt torque

Iíve looked everywhere and canít find an actual torque for the stock bolts, just the angle method, anyone going with an actual number and rolling with it?
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Old 03-22-2018, 05:35 PM
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Default Rod bolt torque

Might check the merchant auto app. It has a bunch of factory torque specs.


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Old 03-23-2018, 06:08 AM
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I couldn’t find anything on their site, there was something here Henry had posted but I can’t even find it for some reason.
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Old 03-23-2018, 06:31 AM
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Default Rod bolt torque

.....

Last edited by LML6600DMAX; 03-23-2018 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 03-23-2018, 07:05 AM
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http://shop.socaldiesel.com/pages/torque-specs.html

You can get one of these. Theyíre available at parts stores for not much more if you donít want to wait. The bolts are tty and need to be stretched so a single torque wouldnít do it.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...70_&dpSrc=srch


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Old 03-23-2018, 07:15 AM
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each point of the head is 60*. torque to 47ft lbs, then mark a line off one point to the rod. turn the bolt half way to the next point on all bolts, then turn to the actual point against the line. this will put you closer than a torque spec.
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Old 03-23-2018, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
each point of the head is 60*. torque to 47ft lbs, then mark a line off one point to the rod. turn the bolt half way to the next point on all bolts, then turn to the actual point against the line. this will put you closer than a torque spec.
This is on new bolts correct?
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Old 03-23-2018, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by clrussell View Post
This is on new bolts correct?
Rod bolts are TTY so you "should" use new ones. they are cheap and i usually just put new ones in if im going that route. i do know of guys who have reused them before though, dont think id recommend it but will work in a pinch.
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James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
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Old 03-23-2018, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
Rod bolts are TTY so you "should" use new ones. they are cheap and i usually just put new ones in if im going that route. i do know of guys who have reused them before though, dont think id recommend it but will work in a pinch.
I wanted to clarify for other folks. But if I reuse a tty (say an ls rod bolt) I don't dont do the angle sequence
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Old 03-23-2018, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clrussell View Post
I wanted to clarify for other folks. But if I reuse a tty (say an ls rod bolt) I don't dont do the angle sequence
balancer bolt and fly wheel bolts, i will reuse a couple times while still doing the angular method. Guy showed me even though they are technically TTY bolts, they will take the retorque sequence4-5 times without issue. even main bolts can be reused 2-3 times before they are no good. But, personally, when im doing an engine, i dont reuse internal structural bolts like that. just rather be on the safe side.
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Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
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Old 03-23-2018, 08:52 AM
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Thanks guys, I got everything bottoned up, getting ready to put the pans on and start getting the motor back together and running hopefully by next week
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Old 03-23-2018, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
balancer bolt and fly wheel bolts, i will reuse a couple times while still doing the angular method. Guy showed me even though they are technically TTY bolts, they will take the retorque sequence4-5 times without issue. even main bolts can be reused 2-3 times before they are no good. But, personally, when im doing an engine, i dont reuse internal structural bolts like that. just rather be on the safe side.
I bought new everything, gonna run it 500 miles and go back to amsoil and get it sold. You would not believe how clean this motor was wear and looks wise, Iím sold on synthetic oils.
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The Blessed Hellride- 08' White GMC Sierra SLT CC/SB,
100k miles. Piston eater.

Wife's ride- 2016 Pearl white Legacy limited 3.6R

Rig ride/new DD-02' Black Eddie Bauer explorer 4.6, -180k, still sporting original trans, outlasted two Duramaxs.
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Old 03-23-2018, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by WVRigrat05 View Post
I bought new everything, gonna run it 500 miles and go back to amsoil and get it sold. You would not believe how clean this motor was wear and looks wise, I’m sold on synthetic oils.
did you mic out the pistons,old ring's gap, crank journals/rod journals, crank mains with old bearings in place and cyl walls? i know what your saying but looks can be deceiving.
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Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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Old 03-23-2018, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
did you mic out the pistons,old ring's gap, crank journals/rod journals, crank mains with old bearings in place and cyl walls? i know what your saying but looks can be deceiving.
Everything was tight, only bearings that showed any wear was 1-2 and 7-8, and it was minimal, I wish I would have gauged everything. Iíll have the heads on tomorrow eve and motor buttoned up Monday, Iím going out to a job Sunday to get a feel for it, I quit my first and only job two months ago for another job that was less than satisfactory so I left there, looks like Iíll be directional drilling soon so bye bye days off, but itís nice being home and getting caught up.
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The Blessed Hellride- 08' White GMC Sierra SLT CC/SB,
100k miles. Piston eater.

Wife's ride- 2016 Pearl white Legacy limited 3.6R

Rig ride/new DD-02' Black Eddie Bauer explorer 4.6, -180k, still sporting original trans, outlasted two Duramaxs.
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Old 03-23-2018, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVRigrat05 View Post
Everything was tight, only bearings that showed any wear was 1-2 and 7-8, and it was minimal, I wish I would have gauged everything. Iíll have the heads on tomorrow eve and motor buttoned up Monday, Iím going out to a job Sunday to get a feel for it, I quit my first and only job two months ago for another job that was less than satisfactory so I left there, looks like Iíll be directional drilling soon so bye bye days off, but itís nice being home and getting caught up.
what im getting at is you can still get significant ring wear and have clearancing opening up in the bottom end but "it still looks good". stuff you cant feel or see with a hand/eye. main and rod clearances are generally in the .00xx range. thats very tiny and opening up .001 is a significant difference. if you used synthetics from day one and had some specs to go with it, i could agree with you.

btw, im not trying to dog ya Reger. i like synthetics too for the properties they carry and what they hold up to vs reg dino oil.

whats directional drilling if you dont mind me asking?
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Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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