Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #16  
Old 11-17-2011, 06:57 AM
bigbopper bigbopper is offline
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  #17  
Old 11-17-2011, 07:15 AM
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I followed this when I did mine, very good breakdown! I would like to add though if the truck is a ZF6 like mine you either need to pull the trans first or take the lower oil pan off. If not the oil pan hits the front diff before the input shaft is free.


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  #18  
Old 11-17-2011, 08:07 AM
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  #19  
Old 11-29-2011, 06:41 PM
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I agree w Durally, Take it all off will make it much easier gettiting at the rest of it.
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  #20  
Old 12-01-2011, 12:20 PM
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I noticed you didn't include removing the fan. What is the size of the fan nut? Thanks and great write up.
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  #21  
Old 12-15-2011, 02:36 PM
Wyo Wyo is offline
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Easiest way to remove the fan is with a air chisels, comes off in a few rattles and works great.
Just a FYI,
Easiest way to remove it is to remove the front clip, after you do it once you will never do it any other way, it comes off quick if you have ever done it.

Also if you pull the hood, fenders and bumper first, you can then remove the entire radiator support fully intact, wiring and all.

When going back together though you have to install the support, fenders, hood and align before tightening down. If you have a friend that knows about body work they can help. But like I said do it once and you will know.

Last edited by Wyo; 12-15-2011 at 03:05 PM.
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  #22  
Old 12-16-2011, 08:34 AM
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You dont have to remove the fan to pull the engine it can stay on it. the nut is a 47mm. You will need a hold tool though as well. You can buy a complete kit for around a hundred bucks that services many fan clutchs or use air chisels.

I guess i dont see the advantage to remove the hood and fenders but to each their own. i understand it giving you more room to work, but there isnt much you need to work on. I dont feel its worth the extra hassle. You can remove the radiator stack as a big chuck with the upper support intact leaving the rest of the support there.

Again, 1000 ways to skin a cat, but completely stripping the front of the truck down to remove the engine seems like a lot of extra unnecessary work, and in that amount of time you could just pull the cab off to remove the engine and still be time ahead. Again still unnecessary and would also tie up a lift for awhile.

But still, to each their own. Many ways to do it, glad you found a way you like.
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  #23  
Old 01-07-2012, 01:13 AM
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Thats a awesome write up man! damn well done! gonna keep this handy.
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  #24  
Old 02-14-2012, 06:58 PM
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  #25  
Old 02-14-2012, 07:59 PM
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  #26  
Old 02-19-2012, 09:08 PM
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  #27  
Old 02-19-2012, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COWBOYTRUUUU View Post
i have a 08 durmax and the battary ran down so i was jumping it off and got the leads on the wrong terminals, pos was on neg.... now it will not do anything at all, now i have put 2 new batterys in it still not a thing ,,whats the box on the pass,side mounted on the firewall? any help out there????

Thanks,
Craig
this is the wrong section to post in. fill out your SIGnature, then go repost in the duramax hard parts section.


Nice write up!
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  #28  
Old 12-16-2015, 07:46 PM
Justinsaine Justinsaine is offline
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Default Excellent Job!!

Thank You for the Info.
Would you do anything different if you were going in with another engine going from a 01 to an 03 both LB7 but different years.

Thanks a bunch
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  #29  
Old 10-21-2016, 04:30 AM
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Wow, that took some patience, good write up.
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  #30  
Old 03-14-2018, 04:59 PM
rickcdewitt rickcdewitt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02greysixer View Post
I followed this when I did mine, very good breakdown! I would like to add though if the truck is a ZF6 like mine you either need to pull the trans first or take the lower oil pan off. If not the oil pan hits the front diff before the input shaft is free.


Sint frum tha orijinul smert fone
I can vouch for this if you don't have a lift that drops the diff a bunch.same for install
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