Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #31  
Old 12-09-2017, 03:23 PM
down_hiller down_hiller is offline
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I don't know how California works but weight restrictions shouldn't be an issue as long as its not for hire
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  #32  
Old 03-07-2018, 01:17 AM
turbovan turbovan is offline
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Any update?

My toyhauler has 2x30lb propane tanks, used it all summer for cooking and hot water, and one 3 day long weekend for heat, I think I barely used 1/4 of one.

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Originally Posted by 2004LB7 View Post
haha, i cant tell if you are serious or joking.
Pretty sure he was serious.
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  #33  
Old 03-07-2018, 10:24 PM
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Funny you ask, I was just working on it today

I actually took a little break from it when I get laid off early 2017 as I didn't have the funds to continue

Just recently got back on it. Still need to finish the demolition. Just finished up removing all of the steel paneling to well, reduce weight but more importantly for access for spray insulation

Next I need to remove the wood plank flooring. Clean it up. Make some doors for it and put some wood ribs on the walls to build out the thickness off the walls for the insulation.

Then the fun part of actually putting it all together

Here are some photos of my progress and what I have to deal with





All of the screws holding the wood down are rusted so came up with this


This is my latest plan/layout
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  #34  
Old 03-20-2018, 11:07 PM
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Been debating on some needed tools.

I got the old flooring removed today and will soon be working on the new flooring, wall studs and covering. Same for the ceiling.

Been thinking about ripping 2x4s down length wise and useing these on the walls and ceiling to provide the spacing for the insulation and a means of attaching the wood paneling

I will also need to cut said panels, maybe 1/2" sanded plywood and probably 3/4" for the floors

Along with building the internal cabinets, shelving, beds, etc

I've come to the conclusion that I need a table saw and a chop saw.

I don't like to purchase things twice. As in too small for the job (or future projects) but since I dont do wood work too often I don't want to over buy my tools ether.

In my past I've used some higher end sliding table saws and other wood working equipment and now whenever I use a lesser saw such as a bench top or job site table saw can't stand the cheapness, looseness, vibrations and overall low quality of them. So now I am torn between spending at least $600 or more for a table saw and not using it much or a cheap saw that will never make quality cuts and I probably won't like much.

Same situation for a chop saw. I know I will likely have to get a few other tools and odds and ends but what are your thoughts on the price range for something like this? Should I spend more up front and maybe never use it much (space is also somewhat a concern) or go for a lesser one and deal with it?

I am currently looking at a DELTA 13-Amp 10-in Carbide-Tipped Table Saw model # 36-725 which is $600

Or a Rockwell 13-Amp 10-in Carbide-Tipped Table Saw model # RK7240.1 for $160

For the chop saw I haven't done as much looking but thinking of a 10" sliding compound miter saw

Please let me know what you think and direction I should go

Thanks Jason
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  #35  
Old 03-21-2018, 05:31 AM
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Are you building the cabinets? If so how nice are you making them? Iíve built a lot of stuff with the Worm Drive Skil saw and clamping a guid down so my cuts were perfect. Ripping the small stuff does get pretty old though unless you can get by with 2 x 2Ďs. I think youíd be good with a cheap portable table saw. Thatís all my dad uses anymore except for when he is building cabinets or furniture in the shop. I bought a 12Ē compound sliding miter saw and damn itís a lot more saw then I need. I think youíd be fine with regular 10 inch miter saw unless youíre putting up crown molding. Even cheap harbor freight stuff can cut straight if you take the time to adjust everything properly. Iíve seen plenty a brand new $400 saws that weíre out of whack.

Iím not sure how quick you need your tools or what you have for big cities around you but I buy most of my stuff used. Thereís always DIYers that are looking to get rid of tools that they bought for one project around here. I picked up my used once $600 miter saw/table for $200.


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  #36  
Old 03-21-2018, 05:46 AM
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I wouldnít buy a miter that that didnít slide. They barely cut 5 inches. You can even get a 7 inch sliding miter that cuts wider cuts that the 10 inch stationary. As far as quality, my dad picked up a 10 inch sliding miter from sears probably 8 years ago to do outlet laminate flooring. Off brand. Surprisingly enough called GMC (global machinery company I believe) Used the thing righteously and had to install 2000 square ft of floor and itís still kicking today. No use in buying a big dewalt if youíre not gonna do it every day. Even the little kobalt 7 1/4 sliding miter for a touch over $100 May do you

As far as the table saw, Rockwell seems to make decent stuff for the price. I know delta is good but thatís steep.
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  #37  
Old 03-21-2018, 10:15 AM
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I've been thinking about just picking up a circular saw just to get started. I can rip the wall, floor and ceiling plywood down with one no problem. It's when I start getting into the more detailed cuts I know I am going to want a table saw

Sometime down the road I am going to install wood flooring in my house so a sliding miter saw would certainly make easy work of that. I've seen some for not much over $100

I'm not opposed to harbor freight, in fact I will probably get the circular saw from there, its just it seems that the chop saws and other large wood working tools are almost the same price as the name brand from Home Depot or Lowes, etc.

I've done some searching for used tools on Craigslist and other sites and anything close enough for me to drive down and get is ether worn down beet up or they want too much. There is a place in Sacramento that seems to have the $600 delta table saw for $450. Not sure if it is still available or if it is missing any parts but looks new in the photos. May take a look today

Also there is a tool outlet store not too far that I may poke my head in to see what they got. Never been to this one and looks like there selection is great and low prices

I want to keep the cabinets relatively simple compared to the norm as I am no professional cabinet maker by any means. I do know my way around a wood shop and when growing up I spend some time with my dad (rip) while he worked, he was a master cabinet maker and professional carpenter by trade so I hope I picked up a few things from him

I'm thinking of making the drawer and cabinets something like this, simple, effective

Or this
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  #38  
Old 03-31-2018, 07:58 AM
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So I've decided that while I have everything open and accessable I am going to convert the brakes from electric to hydrolic disc. The current ones are pretty much done for and the wiring is jacked up so it has to go.

For the disc brakes it is no contest for the Kodiak conversation kit. And I plan on running stainless steel lines. As for the actuator, any recommendations? I'm currently looking at the dexter & Carlisle brake actuator and maybe even the Titan brand too but nont sure. Looks like the Dextor from Easternmarine.com is the cheapest but of course if another is better I will gladly pay more

Anyone have any preferences for the electric to hydrolic actuator?
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  #39  
Old 04-02-2018, 11:14 PM
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Placed my order for the new hubs and calipers today. got the slip on rotors so if they ever need replacing I won't have to replace the whole hub like many of the kits seem to be done.

Now I need to purchase a brake actuator. still debating on whether to get a Dexter #K71-651-00, the Carlisle HydraStar HBA16 or the Titan BrakeRite EHB.

thinking of getting the Dexter as it seems to be the cheapest out of the three and neither of them seem to have many negative reviews.

then I need to pick me up some 3/16 stainless tubing and a few inverted flare fittings.
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  #40  
Old 04-03-2018, 08:43 PM
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Ordered me up some stainless brake line tubing and fittings.

Bump on opinions for a brake actuator before I pull the trigger on one....
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  #41  
Old 04-04-2018, 03:22 AM
jlawles2 jlawles2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004LB7 View Post
I'm thinking of making the drawer and cabinets something like this, simple, effective

Or this
I like the idea of those drawers, but with the way the bottom is the slide, any out of level or slight twist in the frame may cause them to stick. You will also need to find a way to hold them closed. On our camper, the drawer has a catch that holds it closed.

In the motor home that my parents had when I was growing up, the drawers had a 1/2" x 1" notch in the side frames that required you to pick up the drawer to pull it out. The guide was a steel C shape like furniture uses, and the cabinet face was protected by a plastic L shape in the bottom corners. Wish I had pictures to help explain.
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  #42  
Old 04-04-2018, 04:29 AM
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Have you reached out to Adam about the brakes? I know he posted a bunch about what he did to his trailer.


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  #43  
Old 04-04-2018, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlawles2 View Post
I like the idea of those drawers, but with the way the bottom is the slide, any out of level or slight twist in the frame may cause them to stick. You will also need to find a way to hold them closed. On our camper, the drawer has a catch that holds it closed.

In the motor home that my parents had when I was growing up, the drawers had a 1/2" x 1" notch in the side frames that required you to pick up the drawer to pull it out. The guide was a steel C shape like furniture uses, and the cabinet face was protected by a plastic L shape in the bottom corners. Wish I had pictures to help explain.
Those drawers (lower photo) are actually in a trailer and dont have binding issues that I know of. They where popularized by Ron Paulk and you can see him make the drawers here: https://youtu.be/YecDe9E8SD8

I believe I get what you mean by the drawer locks or catchs. You can see his version here in one of his videos


The other idea I am banging around in my head is making the frames out of steel tubing. I have more experience in steel fabrication and I think it could add some additional uniqueness and strength without really adding to the weight. Something like this:



If I went this route I would change the handles to holes in the drawer fronts and make the drawers flush with the front
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  #44  
Old 04-04-2018, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dozerboy View Post
Have you reached out to Adam about the brakes? I know he posted a bunch about what he did to his trailer.


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I know not of this Adam that you speak of. What screen name does he go by?
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  #45  
Old 04-04-2018, 12:56 PM
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Ok, I think I know who you are referring too, malibu795

I've looked through his threads and dont see anything specific to an actuator. Great info on his truck brakes and such and looks like he went with 8k axles for the upgraded braking.
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