Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #31  
Old 04-20-2017, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McRat View Post
I run so much timing in my tunes that it makes baby Jesus cry.

And have melted enough pistons to bump Mahle's stock up 2 points.

The popular theory is to run big injectors and shorter duration with less timing. But people STILL crack pistons.

I have an LBZ piston on my bench (from a friend) that looks like it was cracked at the factory. Like new, just in two pieces. Probably superglue it back together and run it.

Note that melting, not cracking pistons, is what was my downfall each time I blew an engine up from piston damage.

Hmm so for 600whp would 30% over injectors seem plenty ? I'm not asking much and I know my trans will need help real soon just mainly concerned about the engine being it's twice the cost as a trans and I can always just drive around in a lower switch position haha


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  #32  
Old 04-20-2017, 01:15 PM
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I had 60 overs in that neighborhood and they worked very well
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  #33  
Old 04-20-2017, 01:17 PM
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I personally would not do another build using LBZ pistons. While I didn't crack them, there is always the risk. LLY/LB7 or aftermarket pistons. One less thing to worry about.
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  #34  
Old 04-20-2017, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McRat View Post
I personally would not do another build using LBZ pistons. While I didn't crack them, there is always the risk. LLY/LB7 or aftermarket pistons. One less thing to worry about.


I'm leaning towards the fingers and having them ballance within .5grams and then take rotating assembly to machine shop for further ballance and call it a day. Living in cali makes it tough to be complaint yet still be within relms of clean air standards haha figure 600whp is plenty for this state and more then enough to be super fun to drive


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  #35  
Old 04-21-2017, 02:33 AM
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If you dont replace the rods while doing Pistons it's not worth doing. Just throwing money into the wind for balancing, bearings and gaskets to have a weak link to cost it all over again shortly down the road.
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  #36  
Old 04-21-2017, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ripmf666 View Post
If you dont replace the rods while doing Pistons it's not worth doing. Just throwing money into the wind for balancing, bearings and gaskets to have a weak link to cost it all over again shortly down the road.


I'm not turning the engine up anymore then it is now. And also don't have another $2000 for rods he'll I don't even have $300 to begin with haha


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  #37  
Old 04-21-2017, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dvierra86 View Post
I'm not turning the engine up anymore then it is now. And also don't have another $2000 for rods he'll I don't even have $300 to begin with haha


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Rather waist the funds you don't have on the race cart or finger Pistons, the balancing and all gaskets and bearings needed for what your saying you want to do.
Just get a replacement piston and put it back together and turn it down and drive like a Saint. 132 and high gets is your issue.
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  #38  
Old 04-21-2017, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ripmf666 View Post
Rather waist the funds you don't have on the race cart or finger Pistons, the balancing and all gaskets and bearings needed for what your saying you want to do.

Just get a replacement piston and put it back together and turn it down and drive like a Saint. 132 and high gets is your issue.


I'm trading labor and some spare items I don't use for the pistons. Only Reason I'm getting the pistons. And I'm just doing the balancing to help prevent any unwanted vibrations which could harm the crank. Just as a precaution. I'm not gonna turn up the engine anymore than it is right now just need to fix the weak leak and let it last for a while


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  #39  
Old 04-21-2017, 08:06 AM
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And I don't mind labor in doing it again later for better stuff I just need it on the road and able to handle my right foot until I can save up for good stuff


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  #40  
Old 04-21-2017, 10:37 AM
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Wonder why anyone hasn't mentioned a cut set of lb7 pistons yet... or instead of forged rods why not just a stock set of rods.
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  #41  
Old 04-21-2017, 10:42 AM
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Also instead of throwing all this money and time in parts regardless of what you're trading for you should probably just replace what you need to replace and save your money. You're not gonna be able to keep your foot out of it let's be honest here.
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  #42  
Old 04-21-2017, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zakkb787 View Post
Wonder why anyone hasn't mentioned a cut set of lb7 pistons yet... or instead of forged rods why not just a stock set of rods.
He's already running Lbz rods not a big advantage there only around 10% stronger then the Lb7/Lly rods. The Lbz rods even if switched to lml not a big gain and cost to work with Pistons.
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  #43  
Old 04-21-2017, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dvierra86 View Post
I'm trading labor and some spare items I don't use for the pistons. Only Reason I'm getting the pistons. And I'm just doing the balancing to help prevent any unwanted vibrations which could harm the crank. Just as a precaution. I'm not gonna turn up the engine anymore than it is right now just need to fix the weak leak and let it last for a while


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Still the cost for the parts a 2nd time when it takes out everything you just replaced really sucks. You will be money ahead to get a single Lbz replacement piston and run it and save up money.

Your going to drop 2,150 then +60.00 Weight matching of all pistons within 0.5 grams which I would not do the machine shop can when weight matching everything to balance.

You would be into Lb7/Lly Pistons for 1050.00 plus the cost to delip them or race cast for the 1,600.00 area.

Overhaul gaskets, bearing set 800 area.

We over a few budget builds for about anyone. One of our best selling bundles is the Brian crower rod kit with race castvor upgrade to finger bowls all gaskets and bearings.

http://creaturesofthenightperformanc...age%2b&m=57731

Also these refresh kits work great.
http://creaturesofthenightperformanc...age%2b&m=48434
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  #44  
Old 04-21-2017, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zakkb787 View Post
Also instead of throwing all this money and time in parts regardless of what you're trading for you should probably just replace what you need to replace and save your money. You're not gonna be able to keep your foot out of it let's be honest here.


You are totally correct lol my foot is not going on a diet . Although it broke a piston not anything else so figure fix the weak lung and go again. I'm not gonna turn it up anymore than it is now if anything maybe turn it down a hair to help the trans life last a little long


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  #45  
Old 04-21-2017, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ripmf666 View Post
Still the cost for the parts a 2nd time when it takes out everything you just replaced really sucks. You will be money ahead to get a single Lbz replacement piston and run it and save up money.



Your going to drop 2,150 then +60.00 Weight matching of all pistons within 0.5 grams which I would not do the machine shop can when weight matching everything to balance.



You would be into Lb7/Lly Pistons for 1050.00 plus the cost to delip them or race cast for the 1,600.00 area.



Overhaul gaskets, bearing set 800 area.



We over a few budget builds for about anyone. One of our best selling bundles is the Brian crower rod kit with race castvor upgrade to finger bowls all gaskets and bearings.



http://creaturesofthenightperformanc...age%2b&m=57731



Also these refresh kits work great.

http://creaturesofthenightperformanc...age%2b&m=48434


The gaskets will be free beside heads. Those are like 40$ each my cost. And I'm in my trade about 1000$ and getting 2200$ pistons so I don't think I'm doing to bad on the deal. If I can sell more toys prior to rebuild then I might do rods might. But I don't foresee making anything over 600whp and be tuned by either atp or Ppei so i think the rods should be fine although I'm unfamiliar with the breaking/bending point it of the rods


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