Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #31  
Old 01-08-2015, 03:45 PM
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Who tunes your truck Zak? I have more time invested in maf limiting getting our truck to spool than any other project. Its nice when you tune yourself because its all at your finger tips any time of day.

Rich is right, if your worried about spooling, the last thing to do is take rear brakes off. You will need all the braking power you can get to hold it back, if it is actually hard to spool.
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  #32  
Old 01-08-2015, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichLMM View Post
if i'm not mistaken in 2.6 you're not aloud to stretch a frame?
Might be right. Depends on how you interoperate it?

Chassis:
The OEM chassis is mandatory. The engine must be in the OEM location for the body used. The vehicle must retain the full OEM chassis. Wheel tubs, back half conversions, tube chassis, etc, are prohibited.
I would just want it long enough for a long bed to fit on it. Might be considered "back half conversion" idk
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  #33  
Old 01-08-2015, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04jimc View Post
Who tunes your truck Zak? I have more time invested in maf limiting getting our truck to spool than any other project. Its nice when you tune yourself because its all at your finger tips any time of day.

Rich is right, if your worried about spooling, the last thing to do is take rear brakes off. You will need all the braking power you can get to hold it back, if it is actually hard to spool.
Duramaxtuner did tune my truck, but will more than likely be switching tuners. With your guy's advice I will be keeping rear brakes for now

If anyone else has suggestions or tips with my set-up listed I'm all ears!
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  #34  
Old 01-08-2015, 04:44 PM
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Only running front brakes, if it even holds back enough to spool a competitively-sized 2.6 charger, would put serious strain/load on the front axles. I would think it would lead to broken front end parts. Just think of the torque put on the driveline at 2500+ rpms all while not moving, using the brakes to hold it still.

We may try and just disable the rear brakes once(leaving them still on the truck) just to see if its possible. Thats a lot of weight to be lost and moved to the front.
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  #35  
Old 01-08-2015, 05:01 PM
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I know a couple of guys with 2.6 trucks that removed there rear brakes, but there trucks are manual transmission's.

Might have look at making a rotor to bolt on my DHD billet yoke.

I think Andrew said they had a couple of Suncoast transbrakes being test in some 2.6 trucks. Than you wouldn't need to use the brakes to hold it back.
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Special thanks to:
- Danville performance, Mark.
- Suncoast transmission's, Andrew.
- Wehrli custom fab, Jason.
- Profab, Rick
- Turbo performance, Levi.
- HSP, Joe and Dave.
- SoCal diesel.
- Wagler competition, Jeramy.
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  #36  
Old 01-09-2015, 06:03 AM
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What about using a pinion brake versus rear brakes?
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  #37  
Old 01-09-2015, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x MadMAX DIESEL View Post
What compression were you running?
Somewhere in the 11-11.5 range

Not my choice
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  #38  
Old 01-09-2015, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05smoker View Post
Somewhere in the 11-11.5 range

Not my choice
How hard was that motor to start?
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  #39  
Old 01-09-2015, 06:58 AM
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Ed, was that the tractor guy's idea to try that CR?
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  #40  
Old 01-09-2015, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 z71 View Post
How hard was that motor to start?
Quick shot of ether - no matter the weather. After it was warmed up it would fire on its own.
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2005 2500HD CHEVY CCSB, Blackout VVT, FPE SCIV w/ 1057, 3" lowering shackles, overloads removed, Cooper Zeon LTZs on BMF REPRs. SOLD

Thanks to Fleece, Blackout Performance, Genes Machine Shop, Tim, Bullfrog, Simon, Mark Broviak .......

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  #41  
Old 01-09-2015, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeShow View Post
Ed, was that the tractor guy's idea to try that CR?
Yeah but I don't blame him for trying. He has a formula for success that works. Just wish I knew it was that low all along so I could have planned the other parts accordingly. Like 300% more injector and a manual.

Sorry for the derail OP.
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  #42  
Old 01-09-2015, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05smoker View Post

Sorry for the derail OP.
No problem! That's how we learn what works and does not work from people sharing there experience's good and bad!
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2011 CHEVY 2500HD CCSB Duramax/Allison LTZ

2005 CHEVY 2500HD RCLB 2WD Duramax/Allison

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Special thanks to:
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- Suncoast transmission's, Andrew.
- Wehrli custom fab, Jason.
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- Turbo performance, Levi.
- HSP, Joe and Dave.
- SoCal diesel.
- Wagler competition, Jeramy.
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  #43  
Old 01-09-2015, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeShow View Post
Ed, was that the tractor guy's idea to try that CR?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 05smoker View Post
Yeah but I don't blame him for trying. He has a formula for success that works. Just wish I knew it was that low all along so I could have planned the other parts accordingly. Like 300% more injector and a manual.

Sorry for the derail OP.

I talked to them about a cam and engine, he wanted me to go super low compression too.
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  #44  
Old 01-09-2015, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duramaxzak View Post
No problem! That's how we learn what works and does not work from people sharing there experience's good and bad!

I have (4) 16" primaries, plus collector volume, and 3" tubes to the turbo inlet... Didn't hurt spool at all from old 2" ProFab log manifolds and 2.25" up pipes....
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  #45  
Old 01-09-2015, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Jacket View Post
I have (4) 16" primaries, plus collector volume, and 3" tubes to the turbo inlet... Didn't hurt spool at all from old 2" ProFab log manifolds and 2.25" up pipes....
Put an auto in it and see if you can spool that
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Thanks to Fleece, Blackout Performance, Genes Machine Shop, Tim, Bullfrog, Simon, Mark Broviak .......

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