LLY: LLY Rod Bolts [Archive] - Duramax Diesels Forum

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rebel7777
11-20-2011, 12:49 PM
Does anyone know the thread and bolt size, as well as thread type. Building a LLY Built and want to put ARP studs on the rods.

emiller3
11-20-2011, 12:56 PM
Arp studs in stock rods?:confused:

ripmf666
11-20-2011, 01:07 PM
New stock set is 70.00 shipped in the US. Hate to see what Arp would charge to make a set of one off's for something that does not let go before the rod does.

hondarider552
11-20-2011, 01:23 PM
Dont think arp makes that..

rebel7777
11-20-2011, 08:16 PM
I was told they do, just looking for the information for my builder, any help would be appreciated.

JoshH
11-20-2011, 08:29 PM
Best bet would be to get a stock rod bolt and measure it. Then you can find a generic ARP fastener that is the same, but I don't see the point. I've never heard of stock rod bolts failing.

duratothemax
11-20-2011, 10:38 PM
I was told they do, just looking for the information for my builder, any help would be appreciated.

If your builder is asking to put ARP rod bolts in stock rods because he thinks thats what it needs, tell him to put down his "how to build a small block chevy" book, and find a builder that actually knows about duramax's..

TeaBagger2006
11-20-2011, 11:11 PM
I'm with Ben . LoL
Get your motor and run:rofl:

ripmf666
11-21-2011, 04:57 AM
Does anyone know the thread and bolt size, as well as thread type. Building a LLY Built and want to put ARP studs on the rods.


Good luck http://arp-bolts.com/pages/viewcatalog.shtml

schulte
11-21-2011, 11:22 AM
Does anyone know the thread and bolt size, as well as thread type. Building a LLY Built and want to put ARP studs on the rods.

Why not just go with Carillos (which come with ARP bolts)?

rebel7777
11-21-2011, 03:27 PM
Sorry, guys I mislead you, main crank bolts, I misread the text he had sent. Don't worry figured it out.

rebel7777
11-21-2011, 03:28 PM
Why not just go with Carillos (which come with ARP bolts)?

Considered Carillos but for the cost and the amount of hp I'm looking for not worth the extra money. Will have about $10K in the engine when it's complete.

BlkMax
11-21-2011, 03:36 PM
Considered Carillos but for the cost and the amount of hp I'm looking for not worth the extra money. Will have about $10K in the engine when it's complete.

Im' just curious, what are you doing that costs $10K and does not need aftermarket rods?

rebel7777
11-21-2011, 03:44 PM
New oversized Variable Vane Turbo, new pistons, balancing and blue printing, rebuilt & ported cylinder heads, new cam, ARP studs top and bottom, block machined and decked, 50% over nozzles, I maybe missing somethings.

From the research I had done in the past 600hp is about the max for stock rod's, that's what we are aiming for on this build. The next engine we build will have even more goodie's:D

02greysixer
11-21-2011, 03:56 PM
Im' just curious, what are you doing that costs $10K and does not need aftermarket rods?

It adds up quick, 10K doesn't seem
Like a whole lot considering I spent over 6K on a stock overhaul :D


Sint frum tha orijinul smert fone

LWATSON
11-21-2011, 04:56 PM
Its your engine, but if I were in your shoes and trying to keep cost down I would hold off on the heads for now and do rods instead. Your built engine is going to be no stronger than stock if you dont. Also you can make way over 600 HP with stock heads but not with stock rods.

duratothemax
11-21-2011, 06:08 PM
New oversized Variable Vane Turbo, new pistons, balancing and blue printing, rebuilt & ported cylinder heads, new cam, ARP studs top and bottom, block machined and decked, 50% over nozzles, I maybe missing somethings.

Yeah, you're missing [aftermarket] rods. :)

Honestly, why would you ever waste your time and money building a duramax without at least putting LBZ rods in it. Your fancy "balance/blueprint job", big injectors, new pistons, block machining, cam, arp studs, ported heads arent gonna do much when all your rods are bent.

ALL of the parts that you mention...you dont need any of them. Because you can bend stock rods with stock heads, cam, injectors, and main bolts.... Thats like building a 900hp motor and then running a stock trans.

Its your truck, and your money, but I think everyone else in this thread will agree with me on this.

mainer
11-21-2011, 07:55 PM
i've got a set of lbz and lmm rods i'd sell you cheap .... it is definitely worthwhile to at least put these in and have it be safe to 650whp....

ripmf666
11-22-2011, 04:05 AM
Hell I'm running stock main bolts stock cam stock heads. Just rods pistons and balanced and head studs. 30% over injectors and a few changes on turbo setups. You can always add the heads later the rods will be a bitch and cost a lot more down the road in parts and labor.

rebel7777
11-22-2011, 06:45 PM
The engine builder wanted me to do the rod's, I'm considering the option but $2k more for carillo's I'm starting to have engine heart burn. Oh well its only money ;)

ripmf666
11-22-2011, 06:58 PM
The engine builder wanted me to do the rod's, I'm considering the option but $2k more for carillo's I'm starting to have engine heart burn. Oh well its only money ;)

Like said its not more if you take away things you really do not need.

emiller3
11-22-2011, 07:05 PM
Spend money where needed first then on the extras. JMO

othrgrl
11-22-2011, 07:33 PM
I agree with everyone here. If money were limited the FIRST thing that I would do is the rods. We have bent, broken, and put rods through an LLY block with stock headbolts without ever blowing a gasket. Build a solid bottom end first with the money you have to work with, then start adding the more optional things like head work, cam, turbo, injectors, ect. - all of those things can be added relatively cheap after the motor is in without needing to be rebalanced.

coldLBZ
11-23-2011, 01:04 PM
I agree with everyone here. If money were limited the FIRST thing that I would do is the rods. We have bent, broken, and put rods through an LLY block with stock headbolts without ever blowing a gasket. Build a solid bottom end first with the money you have to work with, then start adding the more optional things like head work, cam, turbo, injectors, ect. - all of those things can be added relatively cheap after the motor is in without needing to be rebalanced.

X2
Who is doing the work?

rebel7777
11-23-2011, 05:17 PM
I wanted the stock rods not my builder, he recommended Carillo's and I didn't want to spend the money.

Since posting my questions, I have had a change of heart and ordered up carillo's now, again it's only money.:thumb:

emiller3
11-23-2011, 05:40 PM
Good decision you made there;)

coker6303
11-23-2011, 07:00 PM
I wanted the stock rods not my builder, he recommended Carillo's and I didn't want to spend the money.

Since posting my questions, I have had a change of heart and ordered up carillo's now, again it's only money.:thumb:

It's just money...they print it everyday!!

---------------------------------
08 LMM Chevy CCSB
Relentless Diesel trans
JoshH EfiLive tuning
554hp 1014ft-lbs 7/30/11

rebel7777
11-24-2011, 06:12 AM
Since we are on the subject of a new rebuild, I want the possibility to add a twin later, where could a guy drill a hole in the block for the oil return for the twin?

emiller3
11-24-2011, 06:19 AM
The upper oil pan,next to the starter.

LWATSON
11-24-2011, 07:47 AM
I wanted the stock rods not my builder, he recommended Carillo's and I didn't want to spend the money.

Since posting my questions, I have had a change of heart and ordered up carillo's now, again it's only money.:thumb:You'll be glad you did rods. The peace of mind will be worth more than the money spent. Now you can throw what you want at the engine and feel pretty comfortable with it.

rebel7777
11-24-2011, 03:24 PM
The upper oil pan,next to the starter.

Why not tape and drill the block? It's already at the machine shop it wouldn't take much to do right now. I just need to know were on the block???

emiller3
11-24-2011, 05:08 PM
Guess that could work also,just never seen it done.

othrgrl
11-24-2011, 08:57 PM
Why not tape and drill the block? It's already at the machine shop it wouldn't take much to do right now. I just need to know were on the block???

Why would you drill and tap the block when it is so much easier to do the non-structural upper oil pan?

rebel7777
11-25-2011, 07:40 PM
The block has the ability to take threads better than the pan, I would have to utilize a bulk head style fitting on the pan, I would rathar do the block. Makes it even easier for working on the engine if I have to remove the pan later for any reason. You can't tell me there isn't a place on the block to tap and thread??? I dont always want the easy way out, help me guys ;)

madmatt
11-25-2011, 09:15 PM
you're thinking the oil drain fitting through WAY to much. it's a drain fitting,, why in the hell would you wanna punch holes in a good block if there was no advantage to it?? weld the fitting in if you're worried about using a bulkhead or threaded fitting. and really to drop the pan it would be one more hose to disconnect,, if you're worried about that you'll despise working on a twined truck,,,

madmatt
05-03-2012, 11:49 AM
to update this ARP now has rod bolts available,, 230-6301. I've got a set coming to try out in my build. they give specs in stretch and ft lbs. I'll be using the stretch method.

skintback
05-03-2012, 12:20 PM
Are they still only one time use?

x MadMAX DIESEL
05-03-2012, 01:12 PM
to update this ARP now has rod bolts available,, 230-6301. I've got a set coming to try out in my build. they give specs in stretch and ft lbs. I'll be using the stretch method.

Not that you can everytime, but stretch method is always the best spec to go by. Followed by angle than torque

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

madmatt
05-03-2012, 04:58 PM
Not that you can everytime, but stretch method is always the best spec to go by. Followed by angle than torque

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

yep. and these will get stretched twice. once to check cap distortion with these and again during final assembly.

othrgrl
05-04-2012, 08:43 PM
Are you using these in a set of stock LLY/LB7 rods? I've never seen a rob bolt that failed before the rod itself so I just don't see the point.

madmatt
05-04-2012, 10:23 PM
Are you using these in a set of stock LLY/LB7 rods? I've never seen a rob bolt that failed before the rod itself so I just don't see the point.

no and i've never either but I'm gonna try them out anyway. figure what's another couple hundred when you're doing a build,,, I see lots of shit others do that i think is overkill. what's it gonna hurt to try them out?

madmatt
05-04-2012, 10:24 PM
and also never said they were the best thing to come out since sliced bread,, just stating they are available

othrgrl
05-08-2012, 06:13 AM
So you are not using stock rods? Or you are using stock rods? If you are talking about aftermarket rods then the bolts that come in the rods are more than sufficient, but Carillo does offer the rods with 2 different bolts - so there is no reason to buy them with standards then add ARPs.