Best Method for Coolant Flush/Fill ? [Archive] - Duramax Diesels Forum

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TIM Z
06-20-2009, 07:38 PM
Having only Done coolant changes/flushes on gassers,

Im wandering whats the best way or whatever way you guys do this on the Dmax.

Going to flush out the pink and put some green and distilled water in.

Thanks in advance

lotsofmiles
06-21-2009, 05:30 AM
seems like i couldnt find a whole lot out about this topic.

I gave up and took it in.

bullfrogjohnson
06-21-2009, 06:39 AM
I just drained the whole system then kept refilling water. Then I would let the engine run till the thermostat opened up and then drained with water until everything was clean. Then refilled the whole system with distilled water and green coolant. Take about and hour to do it right.

jmoore
06-21-2009, 06:48 AM
Check with your local shop and see if they offer BG products they have a coolant flush mechine that hooks in to the upper rad. hose and replaces all of the coolant in the system.:happy2:

Killerbee
06-21-2009, 09:52 PM
When cold, yank the lower rad hose. That drains 85%.

Reattach the hose, and fill the degas, start the truck and keep filling to the top.

Stop the truck before it gets hot and pull the lower rad hose again, that is 98%.

MACKIN
06-22-2009, 05:11 AM
The best way is the right way. Avoid HOT temp readings

IF your going to use distilled water have plenty on hand and use for flushing. I also did it with the truck at normal operating temperature.


Shouldn't have to tell you but with the truck not running of course and be cautious as the fluid will be warm and splash around a bit. Do your part and be environmentally friendly. Remove the radiator cap before shut down.



Get a empty 5 gallon bucket and locate the petcock in the radiator open and drain in the empty bucket . Once it's done draining refill with distilled water and restart the vehicle. Not necessary to put the radiator cap back in place. Allow the fluid to circulate top off as necessary.

Repeat the drain process and refill until you see clear fluid coming out of the petcock.

With having the coolant capacity at hand ,I don't recall and I'm to lazy to look it up,drain off half of the capacity approx and refill with your choice of antifreeze.

Allow the fluid to circulate and top off as necessary. Leaving the radiator cap off raise the RPM's allowing it to burp off any air pockets. Test antifreeze for proper temperature protection.

It's simple but messy and takes about an hour. This is the procedure I did.

TIM Z
06-23-2009, 06:20 AM
Thanks guys for the info, really appreciate it.

Yeah, im enviromentally friendly you could say, i use my sons old Kiddie pool to drain the old coolant into, then use my little sump pump to put it into 5 gal drywall buckets to take to my friends at the dealer for disposal, i dont want to polute my own water!


I wasnt sure if our radiators had a drain cock.

Glad to see im not the only one running green.

hondarider552
06-23-2009, 07:43 AM
Tim, the lbz's dont have a drain on the passenger side like the lb7's do. :(

the4wheeler
06-23-2009, 10:16 AM
Tim, the lbz's dont have a drain on the passenger side like the lb7's do. :(

X2
it was very irritating to find out there was no petcock on my LBZ radiator.
Whiskey. Tango. Foxtrot. GM!

TIM Z
06-23-2009, 06:40 PM
Tim, the lbz's dont have a drain on the passenger side like the lb7's do. :(

This is one reason i asked, cuz i couldnt find one!

hondarider552
06-23-2009, 06:53 PM
:rofl:
Think with your dipstick jimmy!

MACKIN
06-24-2009, 05:23 AM
Tim, the lbz's dont have a drain on the passenger side like the lb7's do. :(


Well aint that dumb.............



Is there a block drain or what is the procedure in the GM service manual for draining the coolant system? It can't be pulling the lower radiator hose.

TIM Z
06-24-2009, 06:32 PM
Good question cuz pulling the lower hose is my only option right now.

JoshH
06-24-2009, 06:41 PM
Well aint that dumb.............



Is there a block drain or what is the procedure in the GM service manual for draining the coolant system? It can't be pulling the lower radiator hose.Actually it could be, cause that's it! At least it's a "quick connect" fitting. No hose clamp or anything...

TIM Z
06-24-2009, 07:01 PM
I hate those damn quick clamps on the Rad hoses. Got my share of pinched fingers from those sonsobitches.

Killerbee
06-24-2009, 08:39 PM
The lower hose is extremely simple, and faster to drain, about 10 seconds. Use channel locks.

A petcock takes 10 minutes.

You can do a coolant flush in 15 minutes, if you don't complicate it.

If a high mileage vehicle with poor maintenance, consider running a light degreaser till a bit warm, not hot. Then drain 3-4 times, on the last drain use bottled, distilled or RO water.

No oil based coolants. Ethylene Glycol, Di-ethylene Glycol, or Propylene Glycol (Evans)...each 96%...pH buffers and anti-corrosion, and anti-cavitation additives, 4%.

lotsofmiles
03-12-2010, 07:04 AM
Did you end up doing yours Tim?

I'm getting close to another change and am trying to decide if I want to do it or take it in. I think they charged me about $100 last time

Jared Duramax
03-12-2010, 07:23 AM
would it be faster to pull the thermostats, then drain and fill the radiator and run the truck for a few min then drain it all back out?

mead
03-20-2010, 10:19 PM
On the lmm there is no petcock there is however a block drain on the drivers side. It will drain the entire system without taking off the cap on the overflow. This was the process described in the factory manual.

The way I performed the service was to crawl under the truck with a flashlight, a rack of metric sockets, 3/8 impact with a medium extension and a kiddie pool.

I cannot recommend this method for the faint of heart.

You will be covered in hot coolant but by the time you get out of the shower the truck will be drained and you can crawl back under and put the plug back in.

I used some Teflon tape on mine, I think or at least I thought about it. Anyway I put 2 gal of Dex and about 2 or so of distilled in the overflow tank and started it topped it off etc. Drove to Texas

for what its worth I changed at 35000 ish and I used Dex cool because I had some I am not in love with the stuff and will change to a good diesel specific coolant next time but I always change about 30,000 to 35,000 miles.

jim

JD4440
10-02-2010, 03:46 PM
It almost looks as if you could use a long extension and get it from a safe distance (out of the shower). Looks to be maybe a 15mm ?

dmaxfireman
10-02-2010, 03:52 PM
i pulled the lower hose filled and drained with water and coolant flush then filled and drained water about a dozen times with the truck running. then refilled with power cool

JD4440
10-02-2010, 03:58 PM
Another thing is, half the post say use drinking water and the other distilled water? What's power cool ?

dmaxfireman
10-02-2010, 04:13 PM
normal water is fine.

power cool is was heavy duty commercial trucks use. it can be tested and take additives to recharge it when the protecting properties break down. you can also add a coolant filter that has charge packets in it that will only break down and release when they encounter a situation where they are needed.



very cool stuff. no downsides that i have found yet.

dmaxfireman
10-02-2010, 04:16 PM
http://ww1.prweb.com/prfiles/2004/11/05/175673/OffHighPOWERCOOL.jpg

JD4440
10-02-2010, 05:15 PM
Nice. I may see what they want for a gallon . was planning on stopping by anyway as our DD dealer is also the Allison dealer

dmaxfireman
10-02-2010, 05:25 PM
same here ;) detroit / allison thats where i get all my special stuff for inventing new shit ;)

DAVe3283
10-02-2010, 09:48 PM
As far as tap water, it should be fine to flush the engine with, but on the final fill you'll probably want to use distilled water, especially if you have hard water.

It's only like $1 a gallon, just pick up 5 gallons on the way to get the coolant and be done with it! I figure $5 is worth 100,000 miles of peace of mind :thumb:

JoshH
10-02-2010, 11:09 PM
Before you pull the lower hose, loosen the "radiator" cap to make sure there is no pressure on the system then tighten it back up. Next get the clip out of the channel. Now carefully start to slip the hose back off the radiator, just enough that the coolant can start to drain. When you first pop the hose loose, there will be a big gush of coolant at first, but it should slow down pretty quick. You can now use the cap to regulate the flow of coolant. Loosen it a little to get more flow and tighten it back down to slow it. Obviously, you will want a bucket or some sort of catch pan under the radiator. It also helps if you put a piece of cardboard or something behind the hose to kind of act as a funnel to direct any water from splashing toward the back of the truck.As far as tap water, it should be fine to flush the engine with, but on the final fill you'll probably want to use distilled water, especially if you have hard water.

It's only like $1 a gallon, just pick up 5 gallons on the way to get the coolant and be done with it! I figure $5 is worth 100,000 miles of peace of mind :thumb:
I was about to post the same thing. Either buy the 50/50 pre-mix antifreeze or use distilled water for the correct mix. You probably won't have an issue if you don't, but it is cheap insurance.

Dozerboy
10-03-2010, 11:56 AM
I would only use distilled water other then for the flush. The tap water is Socal is so bad it would trash radiators in our equipment in months.

keith2500hd
10-03-2010, 02:53 PM
i would use distilled water with new coolant, water treatment chemicals can screw up antifreeze properties. i have used shop vac to put suction on tank prior to removing hose or plug. use rope, bunge or kid to hold in filler opening.

Duradually2000
01-20-2013, 06:56 PM
Someone may have already pointed this out but after doing my flush this morning I realized that I may have missed an important first step. If you crank up the heat and get the valve open that lets coolant circulate into the heater core before you shut the engine off for the last time before you flush the coolant you'll get most of the coolant out of the heater core on your first drain. Some of the procedures I have read in the past don't mention this step so I thought I'd just chime in here.

racerbob
01-28-2014, 02:22 AM
I went with the Evans Waterless Coolant, but doing the complete drain out of ALL the water is a pain...The block drains are OK, but the radiator petcock is hard to get to. When all that is done there's still water in the large radiator hose so I cut the lower cross-over radiator hose at the lowest spot where it crosses the front of the engine, drained the rest of the water and used a short piece of 1-3/4" ID exhaust pipe to re-connect the hose..otherwise the ends of that large radiator hose are impossible to get to. It's a one-time fix for the coolant...interesting stuff.

rdepas
10-06-2014, 02:09 PM
I went with the Evans Waterless Coolant

Old thread here, but I am due for a coolant change and wanted to know how the Evans Waterless Coolant is working for you. May save me the PITA of changing coolant again in the future.